Across the Nullarbor to Western Australia

With the house sit at Laura Bay (Ceduna) over after two months of living by the sea, we headed west across the Nullarbor Plains.

We took about a week, with a 3 day stay at a lovely farm called Coorabie Farm near Fowlers Bay, SA. I highly recommend a stop over there to all as it’s a working farm with wonderful hosts, a huge fire pit that is a god send on cold nights, and reasonable rates and clean amenities.

We found camp spots all the way across, but we did particularly enjoy exploring Koonalda Homestead on the Old Eyre Highway. The turnoff isn’t marked but most GPS’s should help find it. It was an old Roadhouse until closed with all the vehicles left to rust in the paddocks. The homestead and hut has been restored, but you must be self sufficient (water tanks available). Nearby is Koonalda Caves which was the water source, plus an old shearing shed. Very peaceful (only dingo’s howling at night) – road in is a bit rough so take it slow when necessary. Nullarbor Roadhouse – Koonalda Homestead

One thing for those crossing, make sure you have plenty of water, as this is scarce unless you stay in a roadhouse/van park. After crossing the WA border and quarantine, we headed to Eucla then Mundrabilla Roadhouse for fuel ($1.72 4 June 15) and camped at Jilah Rockhole overnight. Next day was a long stretch with not many sights until we had enough and stopped at Harms Lake RA, amongst the trees off the highway.

Once we passed through Norseman we decided we’d head north along the Goldfields trail as it was beginning of winter and it would only get colder! So we visited Coolgardie which we loved (do visit a private sign collection in the main st called ‘Signs of the Past’ – if he’s open!) Stopped at 24hr RV stop in back streets at Railway Station, quiet and has water and dump point nearby.

Then on to the ‘big smoke’ Kalgoorlie and Boulder. Another recommended van park is Prospector Holiday Park – Prospector Holiday Park. Friendly people, dogs accepted, close to town. Spent a week sight seeing and doing the Town Hall tours (free) at each town – what a lot of history and it’s the best way to find out about each town. We did do the Questa Casa Hay St Brothel tour with Madame Carmel which is another recommended tour (if you aren’t too prudish). You can book at Visitor Info Centre.

All touristed-out we kept heading north to Menzies and out to Lake Ballard to view the Antony Gormley sculptures (51 around the salt lake) – wonderful at sunset & sunrise. Onwards to Niagara Dam, Kookynie (Ghost Town), Malcolm Dam, Gwalia, Leonora & Leinster. Loved the miners shacks at Gwalia Ghost Town and the history. A cold snap has come in so we are taking refuge in a Caravan Park at Leinster and will continue our northern journey soon….