Crossing the Nullarbor – West to East

After crossing this expanse of Australia again I can safely say….it’s a ‘heck of a long drive’!! Most people can do it easily in 2 days – we took around 7 days to get from Norseman to Ceduna, but who’s counting?!

We did however have a slight setback on Day 1 – a blow out on the truck!! Our first (and hopefully last) whilst towing. B was amazing keeping the truck and caravan under control. The passenger side rear tyre blew sending us over both lanes (no on coming traffic) and into the dirt. Once our hearts had returned from our mouths to our chests, we got about unhitching the van and moving the truck to firmer and flatter ground for the glorious task of getting the buggered tyre off and getting another on.

Blown tyre on truck, mudguard wrecked too

An hour or so later, we were on our way again. I did make an observation though…of the many traveller’s & trucks that passed us whilst doing this repair, only ONE caravanner stopped to offer assistance!

So night 1 we headed for the nearest camp site which happened to be Newman’s Rock. It has a beautiful vista at sunrise (we had clouds) and when not too many people are camped there, the cattle and animals drink from the waterhole. I will admit a couple of alcoholic beverages were partaken that evening!

At Balladonia Roadhouse we stopped to look at the museum – the main focus is on the fiery re-entry of NASA’s Skylab space station in 1979.  The collection includes documents from NASA, a recreation of actual events, and photos. They even have a life-sized replica of some of the debris sitting on top of their roof!

As expected we saw many Wedgetail Eagles indulging in a fresh piece of road kill (weirdly they were all on the WA side). We stopped the night at Jilah Rockhole, a big camp area with plenty of room. The next day the dust & wind started…and continued basically staying with us for the rest of the week!

It wasn’t that far to Eucla then the WA border. We finally gained the 2 hours we lost coming over nearly 2 years ago!! Because of the wind we stopped the night in a gravel pit overlooking the Great Australian Bight – how good is that? Full moon, not much road noise and no neighbours.

After getting up at sunrise (which is freaky because it’s now 7:30am not 5:30am!) we packed up and ventured off the highway to a favourite spot, Koonalda Homestead, about 18kilometres north of the Eyre Highway. Warning to non off road travellers: I wouldn’t go this road if you aren’t fitted out for rough roads. We let our tyres down and took it slow. The first 4-5 kms are rough, then it’s dirt with ruts but better (as long as there hasn’t been any rain). We had dust and wind and march flies nearly the whole time there which almost ruined it, but the sunrise was worth the drive in. The Shearing Shed and blowhole are also worth a look. The Homestead used to service the old Eyre Hwy for fuel, accommodation etc. Oh, and they now have a drop loo!

I will give a blatant plug to a farm stay we recommend- Coorabie Farm.  The following info is from their Facebook site: “Coorabie Farm Accommodation is 8km off Eyre Highway on the eastern edge of the Nullarbor, 5kms east of Nundroo or19 kms west of Fowlers Bay. There are unpowered & powered sites and can sleep up to 15 people in the accommodation areaCoorabie Farm Accommodation is ideal for fishing or tour parties. Facilities include a self contained cabin + 5 separate bedrooms all with reverse cycled air conditioners in (Linen is available on request). Fully equipped kitchen/lounge area with TV & Mobile Coverage. Amenities block with laundry, all on rainwater. Gas BBQ & Camp fire area. Fish cleaning area & cool room available. There is a Private Aircraft Landing Area 900m long x 25m wide within walking distance from the accommodation. Please ring for permission.”

We spent 2 days at Coorabie when crutching was in progress. Deb & Poggy are great hosts and have all the local info you need to enjoy your visit to this area. Unfortunately that rotten wind and dust followed us there too. In the cooler months you’ll just love their unique firepit!

So we were nearly at the end of our Nullarbor trip….smoko at Fowlers Bay, a quick visit to the new Windmill Museum at Penong (which boasts the Biggest Windmill) then on to the quarantine station at Ceduna. We are currently getting repairs done before venturing around the spectacular Eyre Peninsula.

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